TRAVELOGUE: THE TRAIN TO PADDINGTON BY WALE OKEDIRAN
Breakfast at the Hall of Wadham
College, Oxford University, UK was a routine meeting place for many of the
delegates to the maiden edition of the James Currey Literary Festival.
Organized by the young and energetic Nigerian Writer and Academic, Onyeka
Nwelue, the festival was to honor the contributions of Prof James Currey,
co-founder of the famous African Writers Series.
Tucked away in a corner of the
claustrophobic bowel of the College which was established in 1610, the Hall was
busy that early morning as writers from all corners of the world tucked into
the typical English breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, toast and tea.
As we ate and chattered in a warm
camaraderie that is typical of writers events, some of the famous alumni of the
University College starred down at us from the paintings hung on the walls of
the cavernous ancient hall. Amongst Wadham’s most famous alumni are Sir
Christopher Wren, one of the most highly acclaimed English architects in
history who was also an anatomist, astronomer, geometer, and mathematician as
well as the broadcaster, novelist and actress, Rosamund Pike.
Established in 1096, Oxford
University is the oldest University in the English-speaking world and second
oldest in the world after the University of Bologna, Italy which was
established in 1088 and reputed to be the oldest University in continuous
operation in the world. Oxford is also said to run the world’s largest
university press, the largest academic library system in the country, as well
as the oldest university museum.
To reach the University which is
located in Oxford city, 90 km northwest of London which was my working base on
the trip, I had to take the train from Paddington Train Station. As I heaved my
luggage which consisted mainly of books into the crowded train at Dagenham East
station for the one-hour trip to Paddington, I was both alarmed and at the same
time excited at what I saw.
After a two-year hiatus brought
about by the COVID 19 pandemic, it was a delight to resume my international
traveling routine. As a regular visitor to London, I used to be impressed with
the sight of train commuters keeping themselves busy reading newspapers,
magazines and novels.
However, rather than bury
their heads in printable material, most of the commuters on the train to
Paddington that early September morning were glued to their phones, I Pads,
tablets and Apps of different brands and colors.
And as they twitted, flipped
switches and browsed away, the expressions on their busy faces ranged from
anger, laughter to deep concentration. Judging from the fact that commuters of
all ages were involved in the electronic exercise, it was obvious that the
digital age has finally caught up with the young and old.
As I surveyed the breadth and length
of the train with its ‘digital readers’, my book laden luggage briefly felt out
of place. It did not matter that I was going for a Book Festival where I would
meet some famous members of the Book Industry ranging from Writers, Publishers,
Printers and Book sellers. It did not also matter that I was going to Oxford to
witness the release of the UK edition of my new book with the endless
possibilities of exposure to the international literary market, Literary prizes
and other ancillaries for my literary career.
All that mattered to me at that time
was the fear of a gradual demise of the book no thanks to technology.
Another interesting observation on
the train was the enormity of London’s mixed racial population. Although,
historically, London has always been composed of a mish-mash of races drawn
from every corner of the globe, according to recent statistics, the city has
now become one of the most ethnically diverse cities in the world. Over 300
languages are now spoken in Greater London.
At the 2011 census, Greater
London had a population of 8,173,941. Of this number 44.9% were White British.
37% of the population were born outside the UK, including 24.5% born outside of
Europe.
Apart from the well- known teeming
population of Asians, Africans, Caribbean and other white immigrants,
intermarriages among these races have gone on to produce a new generation of
British citizens with ‘colors of the rainbow’
Even though the fast evolving new
metropolis had been predicted many years ago by demographers The Sunday Times
2018 report that "Britain has the highest rate of interracial
relationships in the world" took many sociologists by surprise.
It was therefore not surprising that
above the clattering and screeching and rumbling of the Paddington bound train,
a medley of different languages ranging from English, Indian, Spanish, German
to some African languages such as Yoruba, Hausa, Twi, Igbo among others floated
in the rarefied interior of the carriages as commuters spoke into the
ubiquitous cellular phones.
About two hours later on arrival at
the Oxford University venue of the Book festival, it was obvious that my
observation on the Train that early morning about the new reading inclination
of many people was very well known to the literati that attended the literary
event. As the lively program progressed, writers after writers harped very
strongly on the need to embrace digital publishing in order to keep up with the
new Literary order.
It was the US based Nigerian literary
activist and book critic, Ikhide Roland Ikheola who put it very
succinctly. While delivering the James Currey Lecture on the second day
of the three-day event, Ikhide called on African writers to embrace digital
publishing in order to be in tandem with global developments.
As he put it; ‘’On balance, the West
has been supportive of African literature, but the Internet and social media
house authentic African narrative, unlike the sanitized gruel from many
traditional Western publishing houses. We must revive the African narrative
organically.”
Later in the evening, I decided to
take a walk round the University, which has consistently played a big role in
the education of many African scholars, politicians and writers.
These include former Ghanaian
Presidents, Edward Akufo-Ado and John Kufour, the former Nigerian soldier and
politician, Emeka Ojukwu and Bram Fisher, the lawyer who defended Nelson
Mandela during his political trials as well as the famous Nigerian writer,
Diran Adebayo among others. It is equally important to note that Lady
Kofoworola Ademola from Nigeria was the first black woman to graduate from
Oxford.
My sightseeing commenced at
Waldahm College where I had stayed with some of the writers in the clean and
modest dormitory.
As I admired the ancient buildings
around the front quadrangle including the chapel and the Hall I was impressed
by the medieval and symmetrically built buildings. I later learnt that the
buildings which were built around 1609 are Jacobean in style. They were
designed by the famed architects, William Arnold and Sir Christopher
Wren.
As I roamed through the cobbled and
claustrophobic side streets of the ancient institution, with its array of
medieval but well preserved buildings, I reflected on the importance of the
preservation of archival material be they of structural, literary or visual
arts background. Since it was impossible for me to visit all the 38 Colleges
that make up the University, I was contented with the few Colleges I could
visit.
Away from bustling London, the
iconic buildings of Trinity College, Queens College, and Waldheim College among
other colleges stood in majestic grandeur in the September twilight as a
fitting testimony to more than 1000 years of Oxford’s diverse history and
heritage.
I returned to London via the same
Paddington train station to the blazing headline news of the election of the
new British Prime Minister, Elizabeth Truss.
Perhaps, what attracted more
public attention was the fact that the new Prime Minister had selected a
cabinet where for the first time in the country’s history, a white man did not
hold any of the country's four most important ministerial positions.
While Kwasi Kwarteng – whose parents
came from Ghana in the 1960s – is Britain's first Black finance minister, James
Cleverly whose mother hails from Sierra Leone but whose father is white, is the
first Black foreign minister. Suella Braverman, whose parents came to Britain
from Kenya and Mauritius six decades ago, is the second ethnic minority home
secretary while Kemi Badenoch of Nigerian parenthood but married to a white
British is the Minister of International Trade.
Despite the fact that the upper
ranks of business, the judiciary, the civil service and army are all still
predominately white, this new development elicited different reactions from
different quarters.
My British friend, Alistair
who is now a retired CEO of a Nigerian based multinational organization was not
happy with the development. Alistair who had invited me to lunch at the Old
Bank of England on Fleet street, one rainy afternoon was piqued that the four
most powerful positions in the cabinet of the new British Prime Minister, had
gone to people of color.
Alistair also complained that
many nefarious behaviors ranging from knife stabbing incidents to election
malpractices which were hitherto unknown to British culture have now become
commonplace. ‘’I am not a racist’’ Alistair contended, ‘’however, I believe
that the owners of a country should be in control of their country and not
foreigners’’ he added.
On the other hand, many members of
the Asian and African communities are happy with the rising profile of their
kith and kin in the UK. Malik, the elderly Pakistani cab driver who took me out
on one occasion when the rain from the unpredictable English weather had
prevented me from taking the bus was ecstatic with joy.
Flashing me the photograph of
his first son, he said; ‘’he had a first class degree in Economics from the
University of Kent and is currently in Oxford University for his masters.
Maybe, one day, he may become the British Prime Minister’’ he chuckled.
Since football is an integral part
of English tradition, one sunny day, in lieu of watching a football match, I
decided to visit the home of one of my favorite football clubs, Tottenham
Hotspurs. The Tottenham Hotspur Stadium is located in the northern suburbs of
London. Built in place of the its former White Hart Lane Stadium (1899-2017),
it has been the home of Tottenham Hotspur Football Club since April 2019.
As I went round the
magnificent edifice which is said to have cost the whopping sum of 1 billion
Pounds to build, I was informed that apart from football matches, the facility
is also used for Concerts, Conferences and Events.
After several days of eating
‘Oyinbo’ food, I hungered seriously for some African/Nigerian food. I therefore
went in search of a Nigerian restaurant.
Fortunately, I found one in Barking,
East London. I was surprised at the array of Nigerian food on the menu,
especially the different types of soups. I was just cleaning up my plate of
‘Amala’ and ‘Ewedu’ laced with an array of assorted beef when the Television
set tucked into a corner of the restaurant announced the passing away of 96- year
-old Queen Elizabeth.
Coming just a few days after the
emergence of a new Prime Minister, the death of the Queen and the subsequent
crowning of a new King was definitely a momentous time in the history of the
UK.
Even though she lived to a very old
age, the UK and many parts of the Commonwealth went into mourning at the news
of her death. While the front page of the London Daily Express read; OUR
BELOVED QUEEN IS DEAD, the Daily Mail in its ‘historic special edition’ ran a
tear-jerking headline; OUR HEARTS ARE BROKEN.
Although a double rainbow was said
to had appeared over Buckingham Palace moments after the announcement of the
Queen’s demise, I missed what the Daily Mail had described as ‘a glorious
splash of color in the grey afternoon sky’ due to my gastronomic assignment in
the Nigerian restaurant.
And so it was that I took off to
Buckingham Palace the following morning to join other mourners to pay my
respect to the late Queen Elizabeth 11.
Even though the announcement of the
passing of the British great grandmother was less than 24 hours old, I met
hundreds of mourners who had defied the heavy early morning rain to pay their
respects to the woman whom many had described as UK’s ‘guiding light in the
darkest of nights’.
Many brought bouquets, which they
laid at the black iron gates of the iconic building where a notice announcing
the death of the only monarch most Britons have ever known was attached.
Back to my base later in the day, my
daughter asked me to help look after my two grandchildren while she quickly
kept an appointment somewhere in town. It’s no secret that grandparents love to
dote on their grandchildren, so when presented with my first opportunity to
babysit, I was happy to oblige. Little did I know what I was up to. Hardly had
their mother left the house than the hitherto quiet and mild looking toddlers
took off in different directions in the house.
While the 4- year old boy ran up a
double bunk bed from where he wanted to jump in a ’super man’ style, his 3-year
old sister ran into another bedroom, brought out the drawers from her mother’s
dressing table and scattered all the contents on the floor.
Grandpa was left with running from
one room to the other trying to maintain order and safety while the toddlers
shrieked about the house with delight. Within minutes, I was exhausted.
As I wearily sat down to catch
my breath, my 4- year old grandson came over and gave me a big hug. ‘’I love
you, Grandpa. You are my best friend’’ he said his young face radiant with a
wide smile, as bright as the London afternoon sun that floated through the lacy
curtains into the house.